Jägiknubel

A uniquely beautiful and challenging climbing route to the Jägiknubel with a fantastic panoramic view from the summit. The 15-pitch long route ...

The southwest ridge of the "Jägiknubel" was first climbed in 1927. Afterwards, the route was forgotten and rarely used. In summer 2012, the route was revived at difficulty levels 3 and 4. This special route is now 15 pitches long and equipped with 80 bolts. The approach from the Anenhütte takes about one hour. From the Anenhütte you follow the moraine up to an altitude of 2,760 m above sea level. From there you traverse westwards into the uppermost couloir of the southwest ridge. The first two pitches climb on slabs right of the couloir and end on the ridge. From there, with pitches 3 to 5 you reach the first and only tower. This is downclimbed on the left side in the 6th pitch. Then follows a flatter ridge section up to pitch 11. From there the ridge gets steeper again up to the summit of the Jägiknubel. Towards the summit the number of bolts steadily decreases – those who want to be safe should bring their own protection gear. For the descent the southeast ridge is suitable, which is downclimbed at the same difficulty as the ascent. There are 3 abseil stations set up at the lowest part. Return route from the base of the wall over the moraine to the Anenhütte and from there on various hiking trails back to Fafleralp.